Fashion

50's - Part One
    

The 50 starts in a climate of democracy, a situation
expressed favorable economic development in large industrial
and nationalistic tendencies.
According to Edgard Luiz de Barros, there was a culture of modernizing
developmental model, enhanced, especially in
President Juscelino Kubitschek, inducing not only
behaviors more cosmopolitan, but a new lifestyle
Brazilian cities. There was the so-called "golden age" of
middle class, confirming the extraordinary importance of the media and
cultural industry.
Among the major events of this period: the first is inaugurated
television station in the country (Tupi) was the first Biennial
São Paulo, started the construction of Brasília with the modern
architecture by Oscar Niemeyer, Brazil wins the Cup
World Cup; happens the inauguration of the Museum of Art
Moderna in Rio de Janeiro, in music, there is the Bossa Nova.
50's - Part Two
The textile industry is going full steam, proud of their
exports and manufacturing activity during the war. Among his
main products, cotton fabric deserved the greatest emphasis
Durand explains: "(...) was the leading national fiber,
raw material for generating foreign exchange and a cloth well adapted to
warm climate of the country. " (Durand, 1988 p. 67)
The development of Brazilian industry in this period is well
Zuleika described by Alvim speaking Mappin:
"The Mappin was part of this effort to form a clear statement
national industry, something that takes even more features
speak for a break point with respect to the store
represented in the past (...) in its first decades of
existence, the shop offered basically imported articles. (...)
The consumer of the '50s, in fact, still held a
ingrained bias against the domestic industry. There was no task
easy to convince him that he could extract the same income
products manufactured in Brazil. "(Alvim, 1985, p. 152)
In fashion, the hallmark of the 50s was the emergence of boutiques and
sewers, which are the founders of a sewing "author"
not stuck in the European releases. Gil Brandão appears as the
most famous models. We observed this phenomenon, especially
Dener in Pamplona de Abreu, who began his career in Rio de
January and then moved to Sao Paulo. He was the stylist
First Lady Maria Tereza Goulart, wife of then-President
Jango. Maria Teresa, for the Brazilians, competing with
Jacqueline Kennedy in beauty and elegance. Dener was the first
couturier to ask about Brazilian fashion and often
boasted that he is the creator of fashion brands.
Dener, with his work and prestige, favor the emergence of
Clodovil other names like Hernandez, Guilherme Guimarães (author
the female uniform of the Brazilian Navy) and in future
Markito and Ney Galvao. (Braga, 2003)
It's the beginning of couture in Brazil, where there were the first
doubts about the authenticity of Brazilian fashion,
or that it would be. In the words of Dener:
"Said the French fashion, haute couture, while the Italian influences
the sporty models. Already the Brazilian fashion is born by
necessidadeclimática (...) our style is tropical, with soft fabrics
and patterns more vivid. "(Doria, 1998, p. 131)
50's - Part Three
It intensified the production of magazines and newspapers, reaching
a national circulation, highlighting the renowned columnists,
which now play an important role in disseminating the facts that
involved fashion. Until then, fashion has been dictated by
gossip columns and the personal tastes of women of high
society, totally indifferent to the domestic industry.
Alceu Pena was a big name fashion brands, he illustrated the
that magazine with the article "The Girls of Alcaeus." Magazine
weekly expected by all to be able to do in Brazil
their seamstresses that Alcaeus suggested as fashion. Created
clothes for the hottest contests of Miss Bangor, sponsored
by the textile industry in Rio. Gil Brandão appears as the
most famous models. (Braga, 2003).
The Bangor created the 'Miss Elegant Bangor' to promote tissue
cotton company and national identity at a time
packed by romantic dreams of Hollywood, and where
contests miss caused national uproar.
Given this situation, the big textile mills, as Matarazzo, the
Bangor and Cia Brasileira Rhodiaceta (which began producing
synthetic yarns in Brazil), needed to promote the acceptance of
production to an audience that until then belittling the
national product. Thus, began to invite names in high
French fashion, couturiers and Brazilians recognized
so that they submit to companies in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro
Brazilian tissue collections. They are big fashion shows
promoted by the industry.
In 1958, Carl created the Alcantara Machado Fenit, the first hall
fashion to gather raw material, machinery and clothing, indicating the
maturing of the industry. In this phase, there is the press
fashion for professionals.
According Joffily, in 1959, Gil launched in Brandão
Journal pages of Brazil, the molds are ready for clothing,
proposing popularized the use of molds with style.
Anyway, it's in the '50s that fashion explodes with a profusion of
events, facts, with parades and the first
questions as to whether to create a Brazilian fashion.
In general context, there was the end of the war years and rationing
tissue, the wife of 50 years became more feminine and
glamorous, according to the trend started by the "New Look" of
Christian Dior in 1947. Yards and yards of fabric were spent
for making a dress, very wide and the height of
ankles. The waist was well marked and the shoes were heels
high, in addition to gloves and other luxury accessories, such as fur and jewelry. (CLAUDIA GARCIA).